Where to stay
Hotels in Tbilisi
The Route: Tbilisi to the Monastery Gate
From central Tbilisi, head east on the Kakheti Highway (S5) toward Sagarejo. The 75-kilometer drive takes about 1 hour 45 minutes in good conditions, but budget 2.5 hours to account for urban traffic leaving the city and the final stretch. You'll pass through the town of Sagarejo, where the last reliable fuel station sits—fill up here. Beyond Sagarejo, the road narrows and winds through semi-desert scrub, with signs in Georgian and English pointing to David Gareja. The final 15 kilometers are unpaved but graded; a standard car can manage in dry weather, though an SUV is safer after rain.
The drive is straightforward but not scenic in the postcard sense—expect arid plains, occasional shepherd huts, and distant ridges. The turnoff to the Lavra complex is marked by a small sign; from there, a bumpy track climbs to a parking area below the monastery. If you're driving yourself, leave Tbilisi by 8 a.m. to avoid the worst of the city's morning rush and to reach the site before midday heat. Alternatively, many hotels in Tbilisi's Old Town or Vera district can arrange a private driver for the day, which removes the stress of navigation and parking.
Road Conditions and Timing Your Visit
The asphalt ends about 5 kilometers before the Lavra, giving way to a dirt road that can be dusty in summer and muddy in spring. The climb from the parking area to the monastery itself is on foot—about 15 minutes uphill on a rocky path. There are no facilities on site, so carry water and snacks. The best months to visit are April to June and September to October, when temperatures are mild (20–25°C) and the ground is dry. July and August bring 35°C heat with little shade, while winter can see snow and ice on the access road, making it impassable for regular cars.
Border considerations: David Gareja sits near the Azerbaijani border, and parts of the complex (including the famous Udabno monastery with its frescoes) are on the Azerbaijani side. As of 2023, access to Udabno is closed due to border restrictions. You can still visit the Lavra and the refectory, but check current conditions with your hotel or a local guide before setting out. The Georgian military patrols the area, and you may be asked for identification—carry your passport. Allow 1.5 to 2 hours at the site to explore the cave churches and take in the views.
Where to Stay and How to Book
Most travelers base themselves in Tbilisi, where the hotel range spans from budget guesthouses in Marjanishvili to design hotels in Sololaki. For this day trip, staying in eastern Tbilisi—near Isani or Samgori metro stations—cuts 20–30 minutes off your morning drive. Alternatively, Sagarejo has a few simple guesthouses (around 80–120 GEL per night) if you want to start closer, but the town lacks dining variety. I'd recommend booking a hotel in Tbilisi's Old Town for the atmosphere and easy access to restaurants after a long day; places like the boutique hotels on Erekle II Street put you within walking distance of evening entertainment.
When booking, look for hotels that offer tour desk services—many can arrange a driver-guide for David Gareja for 150–250 GEL per day, including fuel and waiting time. This is often more convenient than renting a car, especially if you're not comfortable with Georgian roads. If you prefer to drive, ensure your rental agreement covers gravel roads; some agencies restrict this. Also confirm that your hotel provides a packed breakfast or early coffee, as leaving before dawn is common. The 7-day funnel shows strong interest in Tbilisi hotels (132 views), so book early in peak season (May–September) to secure the best rates.
Practical Tips and What to Skip
Start early to avoid heat and crowds—by 10 a.m., tour groups begin arriving. Bring sturdy shoes, sun protection, and cash for the small entrance fee (around 5 GEL, subject to change). There's no ATM or card acceptance at the site. Photography is allowed in most areas, but be respectful in active chapels. Skip the makeshift souvenir stalls near the parking lot; prices are inflated and quality is poor. Instead, buy local honey or wine from roadside stands on the way back—Sagarejo is known for its vineyards. For lunch, stop in Sagarejo at a family-run restaurant; I'd avoid the overpriced tourist spots near the highway and head into the town center for khinkali and lobio.
On the return, consider a detour to the Ninotsminda Cathedral (12th century) just outside Sagarejo—it's a quiet, underrated stop with frescoes and no crowds. Back in Tbilisi, you'll arrive by late afternoon, leaving time for a sulfur bath or a walk along Rustaveli Avenue. If you're staying multiple days, don't combine this trip with wine tasting in Kakheti on the same day—it's too rushed. Devote a full day to David Gareja and another to Telavi and the wineries. And skip the urge to visit Udabno until border access reopens; the partial experience is still worthwhile, but manage expectations.