Start at Dezertirebis Bazari, then walk down to the Dry Bridge
Begin at Dezertirebis Bazari, the covered produce hall near the intersection of Pekini Avenue and Saburtalo Street, a short metro ride from Rustaveli on the Saburtalo line to Technical University station. November is persimmon and quince season here, and the cheese counters carry guda and sulguni from the same stalls most mornings. Counters stay open roughly 08:00 to 19:00. Bring cash in lari; most vendors take cards but the smaller dairy stalls often do not, and the hall is busiest between 10:00 and 13:00.
From there take the metro back to Rustaveli and walk down to the Dry Bridge flea market on the Mtkvari's left bank near Vakhtang Gorgasali Square. It is open-air and quiet in November rain, so treat it as a ten-minute look rather than a destination, then head uphill to Station Square, where the covered market around the railway station sells dried fruit, nuts and churchkhela under cover. This is where you'll find the cheapest tklapi and dried herbs in the city.
The Deserter Market and the Pasazh arcade
The Deserter Market, at the bottom of Agmashenebeli Avenue near the 300 Aragveli metro end, is a two-floor covered bazaar that Georgians use for meat, pickles and household goods rather than souvenirs. Saturday morning is the best time: the lower floor fills with village vendors selling jonjoli, pickled garlic and sauerkraut, which peak in November. Skip the upper-floor electronics and clothing; it is not what you came for. Budget an hour and take a taxi back to the city centre, roughly 10 to 15 minutes depending on traffic on the Baratashvili Bridge.
For a drier afternoon, the Pasazh off Rustaveli Avenue is a restored 19th-century shopping arcade on Rustaveli Avenue near the Opera house, with a glass roof, a handful of design shops and cafes, and excellent people-watching from the balcony. It is small, perhaps 20 minutes of browsing, so pair it with the National Museum next door on Rustaveli Avenue. November daylight fades by 17:30, so start the arcade before 16:00 and you will have time for both.
Where to stay for this route
Base yourself within walking distance of Rustaveli metro. Hotels around Freedom Square and Rustaveli Avenue put the Pasazh, the Dry Bridge and the metro to Saburtalo within a 15-minute walk, and taxi rides to the Deserter Market stay under 15 minutes. Mid-range rooms in this district generally run from around 150 to 300 lari a night in November, with smaller guesthouses in Sololaki and Vere offering better value if you do not mind stairs and steep streets.
If you prefer quiet and local colour, look at the Vake district near Vake Park, where Dezertirebis Bazari is a five-minute walk and the metro at frente reaches Rustaveli in about 15 minutes. Vake is greener and calmer, but taxis to the old town cost more. I would book in Sololaki or around Freedom Square: the November rain makes short walking distances matter more than a garden view, and you will use the metro less.
Practicalities for a wet November day
November in Tbilisi is cool and damp, with daytime highs around 10 to 14 degrees Celsius and frequent drizzle, so pack a waterproof jacket and shoes with grip; the cobbles around Sololaki and the Dry Bridge get slick. Markets are at their best from 09:00 to 13:00. Carry small lari notes for produce, and expect vendors to weigh cheese and dried fruit to order. Public toilets are scarce, so use the ones inside the Pasazh and the larger market halls.
Combine the covered markets with nearby indoor sights: the National Gallery on Rustaveli Avenue, the sulfur bath district in Abanotubani, and the underground metro itself, which is warm and reliable. A single metro ride costs 1 lari with a Metromoney card, available at station kiosks. Avoid planning a market day around the Dry Bridge in heavy rain; it thins out fast. Late November also brings the first Christmas decorations along Rustaveli Avenue, which makes an evening walk worthwhile.