Tbilisi and the East: comfort food in the capital
Tbilisi in winter is made for long lunches. Start at the Deserter Market near Marjanishvili metro, where stalls sell fresh churchkhela and hot khachapuri. For the classic cheese-filled bread, try the Imeruli style at Pasanauri on Kote Abkhazi street; a whole one costs 8–12 GEL and is enough for two. In January and February, expect daytime highs of 5–7°C, so book a hotel near Rustaveli or Freedom Square to walk to meals without long taxi rides. Most hotels in these central districts charge 120–200 GEL per night for a double, higher on New Year's Eve.
For something deeper, head to the Abanotubani sulphur bath district and order chakhokhbili, a stew of chicken, tomatoes and herbs. The version at Café Gabriadze, near the Marionette Theatre, is rich and served with fresh bread. Pair it with a glass of Saperavi from Kakheti. If you are staying in the Vake neighbourhood, the restaurant Shavi Lomi does a hearty kharcho (beef and rice soup) that locals favour. A taxi from Freedom Square to Vake takes 10–15 minutes and costs around 5–7 GEL. I would book a hotel in Sololaki for the mix of old streets and easy access to both.
Kakheti: wine country warmth
An hour and a half east of Tbilisi by marshrutka (5 GEL) or a 70 GEL taxi, Sighnaghi sits on a hill above the Alazani Valley. Winter here is quiet, with temperatures around 0–5°C. The dish to seek is mtsvadi — pork skewers grilled over vine cuttings — served with pickled jonjoli and hot lavash. In Sighnaghi, the restaurant Pheasant's Tears (also a winery) does a robust version, and a meal for two with wine runs 60–80 GEL. Many guesthouses in town offer half-board for 80–100 GEL per person, which often includes a home-cooked dinner of khinkali and chakapuli, a tarragon-scented lamb stew.
Further east, Telavi's central market is the place to stock up on tklapi (fruit leather) and guda cheese. For a sit-down meal, the family-run Alaverdi restaurant near the monastery serves a winter-only dish called khashi, a garlicky beef broth traditionally eaten at dawn after a night of drinking. It is an acquired taste; if you are not keen, order the more approachable chikhirtma, a chicken soup thickened with egg and lemon. Buses from Tbilisi to Telavi leave every hour from Samgori station and take about two hours. I would stay two nights in Sighnaghi rather than day-tripping, as the last bus back leaves at 6pm.
Svaneti and the High Caucasus: mountain fuel
In Mestia, the gateway to Svaneti, winter arrives early — snow can fall from November, and roads to Ushguli may close. The local specialty is kupati, a well-seasoned pork sausage grilled over an open fire. At the café inside the Svaneti Museum, a plate of kupati with potatoes costs around 15 GEL. For something more substantial, try chvishtari, a cornbread stuffed with cheese and sometimes potato, baked in a ketsi (clay pan). The family-run guesthouses along Tamar Mefe street often serve dinner for 20–25 GEL per person, including homemade wine. A flight from Tbilisi to Mestia's Queen Tamar Airport takes 1 hour 10 minutes and costs 80–100 GEL one way; the alternative is a 9-hour drive from Tbilisi.
If you are skiing in Hatsvali, the small resort above Mestia, stop at the Restaurant Zuruldi at the cable car base for a bowl of kharcho and hot tea. Prices are higher here — expect 10–15 GEL for soup. For a splurge, the Mestia Inn offers a set dinner of Svanetian specialties including kubdari (meat pie) for 40 GEL. Book accommodation in Mestia's town centre within walking distance of the main square, where most guesthouses are concentrated. In January, night-time temperatures drop to -10°C, so choose a hotel with reliable heating; many older guesthouses rely on wood stoves.
Adjara and the Black Sea coast: seafood and local flavour
Batumi in winter is mild but damp, with temperatures around 8–12°C and frequent rain. The city's food reflects its Ottoman past: look for adjarian khachapuri, a boat-shaped bread filled with cheese, butter and a runny egg. The best versions are at Retro, on Kostava street, where one costs 9–12 GEL. For something warmer, order a bowl of chorba, a lamb soup with vegetables, at the nearby Café Adjara. A double room in a mid-range Batumi hotel near the Piazza costs 100–150 GEL per night in winter, half the summer rate. Use the time to explore the old town and the Botanical Garden, which stays open year-round.
An hour north by marshrutka (3 GEL) is Kobuleti, a quieter seaside town where the specialty is fried red mullet, available even in winter. At the Kobuleti fish market, you can buy fresh catch and have it grilled at a nearby stall for a small fee. For a sit-down meal, the restaurant Laguna on the seafront serves a hearty fish soup for 8 GEL. Farther south, in Sarpi near the Turkish border, the small cafes serve muhammara and other Adjarian dishes. I would base myself in Batumi for three nights and take a day trip to Kobuleti, rather than staying in the smaller town where many places close in winter.